Cruising

Short on time and connectivity.  More next week from St. Marteen.

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BARCELONA

I have just recently finished an extensive review of BCN, so I´ll limit my comments.  Since my previous visits have all been in July, I was expecting a smaller crowd.  Wrong!  There were probably more people than my previous visits. ¨Barcelona is a victim of its own success¨ according to my tour guide Dominique Tomasov Blinder, who leads a walking tour and history of the Jewish settlement and dispersion from Spain.  You will find her @ www.urbancultours.com.
This trip I explored the coastline N & S away from BCN. I missed the futbol team again.  One of these days.

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FLORENCE

Firenze

Sunday after the huge breakfast offered at the Rome hotels, it was off to the train station for the high speed (250km/hr) train to Firenze.  I tried walking from the train station to my hotel at the Pointe Vecchio because it looked like a 10 minute walk on the map.  What the map didn’t show was the quality of the streets.  Cobblestones.  Interesting to walk on, not for pulling luggage on wheels.  Sunday afternoon was spent walking around the town center.  My god, I didn’t realize so many people could fit in-such a small area.  And its late fall, not exactly the height of the tourist season.  I would hate to be there in the summer when the kids are there.  Lots of “silver hairs” from all over the world.

The lines were pretty long.   1 1/2- 2 hr wait for the Duomo and “The David”.  Didn’t do it. Still,remember it from my previous trip in-1970.  Probably has changed   Did manage to just walk in to the museum di  Vecchio.  The frescos on the ceiling were amazing.  A short walk back to the Hotel Delgi Orafi, my home for the next 2 nights and a glass of Chianti at their rooftop bar.  It began raining again so it was a quick walk to a small osteria and a dish of ravioli.

Monday morning I explored the numerous small shops of leather and visited many cafes for espresso.

That afternoon was the highlight of my trip; an excursion with a guide to the Tuscany wine region and two different family run Wineries.  I had a level I sommeliers course on chianti and super Tuscans. 5 hours later I was back at the hotel and in bed.  If you are a wine aficionado, you must do the wine country excursion.  Multiple tastings as well as olive oil and balsamic tastings. More memorable than another church in Florence.

Tuesday morning I joined a walking tour from Artviva, a really super excursion company in many location of Italy.  There were 5 of us on this 3 1/2 tour; all Americans.  The first couple were from Houston and remembered me from the The Houston Club.

Of course it was raining the entire morning. Fortunately I had my weather proof clothing.  Lots of history.  This particular tour had no atraction visits, but Artviva does offer tours with”skip the line”

I had my last Italian meal of linguine with fresh seafood in a oil and tomato broth.

Later that afternoon it was a quick drive to the Florence airport for my hour flight to Barcelona

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ROME

October 25,2018

Rome is a cornucopia of Italians on the go and the gentile ways of the hospitality industry. I arrived after an overnight flight via Frankfurt. A 40 min bus ride in from Fiumicino and a quick taxi to the Piazza  Barberini and my hotel.  After being shown to my exquisitely decorated closet, I threw my stuff in the room and set off walking.  For the next 3 days I never needed hired transportation except for 2 metro rides.  Rome is a walking city.  I was 10 minutes from the Piazza di Spagna(Spanish Steps) where I enjoyed my first sunset.  After a fantastic meal of pappardelle truffle and mushroom, it was to bed for an overdue rest.  Friday I explored Piazza del Popolo , went to the Illy store for some coffee to-bring home.  Dinner was a filet w/black truffles; truffles are big in the italian kitchen.   Saturday, it was off to explore the most famous park in Rome, the Villa de Borghese.  I was disappointed.  It is not maintained.  What a disgrace.  A walk down the via Veneto and then buying some trousers which I accomplished, lunch at the  Piazza del Reppublica on the best pepperoni pizza I have ever eaten. Saturday evening during dinner it started raining and didn’t stop for 3 days. italian hotels are big on breakfast and Sunday was no exception.  Then it was a quick metro the the train station and on to my high speed train to Florence. 

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Vancouver

August 21,2018

I like call Vancouver the San Francisco of Canada. They are both cities that have their origins in the Gold Rush of the 19th Century. They were both settled by their countries respective railroads expanding westward and they are both beautiful cities landscaped as mountains merged into the Pacific Ocean. Their housing cost have exploded and its now one of he most expensive housing markets in North America.
Now there are differences. The people in Vancouver are some of the nicest and most courtesies I ever encountered. If there is a downside to Vancouver, it would have to be their food. Oh there are plenty of walk up restaurants the problem is they are expensive and coming from a foodie city like Houston, I found the food very blasé. Its all Beer Pubs and bar food. Seafood you say? I probably ate at 10 different restaurants in the week and only found seafood on 2 menus, the sushi bar excluded. I did sample some Canadian oysters and I really liked them. They were not as brined as East Coast varieties.
I choose the Pan Pacific hotel for my stay. I have been here 2times before and really appreciate its location on the water, a few steps from the major transportation hub, the skytrain and the major bus routes. As you may recall, I purchase a pass to the public transportation system and ride all over town. Vancouver ‘s system is as good as any in the world. One can catch an A/C train at the airport and get off a 2 block walk to the Pan Pacific. The cost is 2.8CAD which is $2.20. Thats helpful because the BC government has not let Lfyt and Uber operate.
The trip started with Air traffic delays of an hour due to the visibility issues resulting from the fires on the West Coast. The haze on arrival was what I remembered from living in Los Angeles in the 70’s. It persisted for several days until a rainy system washed out the particulate matter. My last day was gorgeous.
There are great bicycle paths.If cycling is not your thing, one can take a seaplane from the harbour steps from the hotel and take a 20 “ site seeing flight or do what I did and fly to Victoria. On that island there is a beautiful private garden operated by the 3rd generation Butchart family.


On my last day, I took the ferry (aka “Sea Bus”) across the harbor and then a public bus up a 1000 feet to the base of a ski resort know as Grouse Mountain. There I headed into the woods for a very steep hike.

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Santa Fe

Santa Fe was originally settled by our nation’s first people hundreds of years ago.  The Rio Grande River has its headwaters in what is now Colorado and runs southward through the middle of New Mexico.  The Pueblo people settled along its banks in the area of what is now Santa Fe.

The Spanish settled the area and named the town in 1610.  Santa Fe means “holy faith” in Spanish. It is the oldest state capital in the US.  It sits on plane at the base of Sangre de Cristo Mountains

which now hosts several winter ski runs.   The altitude of Santa Fe is 7200 feet and you better believe you are going to know it.

I’ve been to the mountains most of my adolescent and adult life in both winter and summer, but this trip took me the longest to adjust to the altitude.  I haven’t been to the mountains in probably 5 years and it was extremely hot and dry.

I managed to stay for my 5 night excursion at the picturesque Casita Bonita which is on the grounds of the home of Bruce and Heather Galpert.  This lovely rental is available on all the vacation rental sites as Santa Fe Casita Bonita.  It was equipped with everything you could possibly need for a short or extended vacation.

Now there is plenty to see and do in Santa Fe and the surrounding area.  Before I get into the food; and I did get into it, let talk about the activities:

Santa Fe is home the 3^rd largest art market in the country. Behind NYC and Los Angeles, there are abundant galleries along Canyon Road which is about a mile long winding from the beginning of the Santa Fe Trail up into the mountains.  There are about 40 galleries along this mile.  Also interspersed are two great eating establishments; Geronimo and El Farol.   I walked the first night from the “Plaza” after attending a free concert of my old New Orleans jazz queen, Marcia Ball.  At the top of Canyon Road sits El Farol.  This bar/restaurant features one of the oldest functioning bars in North America.  It also specializes in Flamingo dancers on Saturday evening and Live Jazz on Thursday.

A good way to hear the history of Santa Fe and it surrounding area is the daily 10 am walk that is sponsored and leaves from the New Mexico History Museum, which is just off the Plaza. The walk is about 2 hours and covers most of downtown Santa Fe as well as its Capital complex.  It‘s led by volunteers from the History Museum who are quite knowledgeable.

On Saturday mornings there is a farmers market at the old rail yard which is well attended.  One can find fresh produce from the area.  There are also nice treats such as local honey and baked goods.  Have you ever had a blue corn donut with lavender frosting…You should..

IF you feel like leaving the area for a day, drive north on the state highway and make your way to Bandelier National Monument.  It’s about an hour’s drive to the visitor center in White Rock, NM.  From the parking lot you will board a city bus which will take you into the National Park.  Once in the Park, there is a 1 ½ hour walk along the canyon walls inspecting cavern’s where the Pueblo’s made their home. Take you National Park Pass, or buy one there.

Once finished in Bandelier, you are very close to Los Alamos.  IF you have any interest in the Manhattan Project and the end of WW II, you must visit the museum at the Los Alamos National Laboratory and/or the Bradbury Science Museum.  IF you are looking for a great breakfast or lunch, along the way, pull off the main highway into Tesuque Village Market which is combo grocery store and restaurant.  I had an order of Blue Corn Pancakes……

Also for another day, drive South and then Eastward from town and visit Tent Rocks National Monument.  Also a good hour’s drive from town.

So food worth mentioning:

Tomasita’s   traditional NM fare known for their Red Chili.  Located near the old rail yard.

El Farol  Spanish fare with Tapas and music in the bar.  Located at the top of Canyon Rd.

El Meson  similar to El Farol but with better music.

Café Fina is an old service station on the Old Las Vegas Hwy about 10-15 min out of town past Casita Bonita.  Specialty cooking and bake goods.  Open till 3 PM…This is where the locals meet and greet.

The Shed  downtown on Palace Street about a block from the Plaza.  Always a wait, service lacking, but food very good.  Especially the Red Chili which you must try prior to leaving Santa Fe.

Santa Fe Bite is the 50’s themed restaurant co located with the  Garrett’s Desert Inn Motel. Don’t be waved off by the looks of the motor court.  The restaurant was very clean and great service.  I had the best Green Chile cheeseburger ever.

Take  a look at  some photos….

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Don't leave Barcelona without.....

Barcelona is my favorite “go to” city in the world.  It’s located on a gentile sloping area of northern Spain and sits next to the cool Mediterranean.  The weather is cool in the morning but can get hot in the middle of the day.  By evening the weather cools down and outdoor dining is the norm.

I spent time a considerable amount of time there the last 3 summers and have plans to return this fall.  I am constantly asked about restaurants and things to see and do.  With that in mind I have compiled my list of “Don’t leave Barcelona without”

Let me start by giving the first time visitor some tips.  The city is very compact and it quite easy to get around.  I use public transportation as I do all over Europe.  There are both A/C buses and subway which is not completely A/C.  You need a fare card which can be purchased from vending machines at the entry area of all Metro stations.  I get a T-10 card which cost E9.90 and is good for 10 journeys on either the bus or Metro.  I prefer the bus since its a/c and the city is quite lovely and worth looking at as you journey.  You won’t be able to buy a card on the bus, but can pay for a single ride to the driver.  You can also buy the T-10 card at the airport outside of the baggage claim area.

The next tip is get your phone working.  You want to use Google Maps.  If your stay is for a week or longer and you have an unlocked GSM phone, go to Vodaphone or Orange and get a 1 month SIM care for E10. It will come with 2 GB of data which is plenty.  Otherwise, call your provider before you leave and sign up for the $10 daily “if you use” plan overseas.

Barcelona is an outdoor city.  This means you should walk anywhere that 20 min or less.  It’s a wonderful place to be and see.  You will be amazed as you walk down a city block how much retail is available and how nice the establishments are. Plan on dining and drinking at outdoor cafés.

So you’ll need a hotel.  There are the usual large international chains that all have nice and expensive properties, but I prefer the local variety.  I am listing 3 hotels that I am familiar with.  They are all nice as I have stayed or dined in all 3.  They are geographically in different areas but all are accessible by public transportation.  In increasing price:

                Hotel Villa Emilia

                Hotel Codes de Barcelona

                Hotel 1898

What to do??

The first thing I do in any new city is get on the “Big Red Bus”.  This is a hop on hop off double decker tour bus with a headphone narrative in 8 languages.  I don’t get off.  I ride the entire route on the upper deck.  In 2 hours I have seen the entire city from above the traffic and am ready to set out on my own later.  This is also a good thing to do after flying overnight since you will have jet lag.

The father of Barcelona is Antoni Gaudi.  His architecture is everywhere but there are several places that you must plan on visiting.  The most fun is Park Guell, an open air park. This is not like any park you have ever seen.  It is at the end of a bus ride up the mountain with spectacular views of the city and ocean below.  You should go online and book your admission at least 2 days in advance during the season.  Plan on spending about 3 hours including transportation up and down.  I would go first thing in the morning before it gets hot.

Other Gaudi stops would be the famous Sagrada Familia, a cathedral, which also requires advance ticketing.  You should use the tour here to hear the narrative.  If you take the Big Red you will have stop here as well as near the Casa Batllo which was a private home Gaudi designed.  You can tour Casa Batllo as well as Casa Mila across the street and up a block.

If you like music, check the schedule of the Palau de la Musica and catch a performance.  You will see a Gaudi design music hall as well as enjoy the evening.  There is a group of Spanish guitarist that I see every visit know as “Barcelona Guitars” that sometimes perform in the Palau or sometime less expensive an old cathedral in the gothic section.  Neither have a/c so dress accordingly.

IF ART is your passion, there are several museums of noted Spanish artist including Picasso, and Miro.  The Picasso museum is in the gothic quarter.  It’s the old city with narrow streets and many walk in shops.  The other 2 museums are the “Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya” and the” Joan Miró Foundation”. These later two sites are in a beautiful park with is on the “MontJuic”.  Now this is a separate area which you can easily spend a half day exploring.  Besides the two previously mentioned museums, you should ride the public bus up the hill and see the previous FCB stadium, Olympic swimming area and the Castle at the top of the hill.  Get off the bus and walk around the grounds of the castle to the ocean view.  I sometimes go there just to sit and take in the view of the port below.

In the center of the city there is a large plaza known as the Place de Catalunya.  This is the busiest space in the city.  On one side of this the 9 story department store known as El Corte Ingles.  The largest store in BCN.  The ground floor is a gourmet food center which reminds me of Harrods’s.  IF you take the elevator to the 9^th floor, there is a lovely Buffett and nice dining area with a view of the Place and good place to meet and relax.

Walking away from the Place in another direction you will find yourself on the La Rambla.  This is a mile long pedestrian only boulevard which sloops down to the port of Barcelona.  It is the busiest and most crowed street in BCN.  The number 1 tourist destination in the city.  It also has the distinction of the highest pickpocket rate in Europe.  No exposed jewelry or watches please.  No valuables in back packs and wallets in side or front pockets only.  I’m not kidding. These people are pros.

When you get to bottom of the hill, you can cross the street and walk down to the Marina.  In front of you will be the ferry terminals and the tourist boat rides.  Not to miss, there is a pedestrian bridge in to the marina which leads to a shopping mall with some nice outdoor areas. 

In a completely different environment,and if you have time, you can catch an hours’ train ride to the Montserrat Monastery which is on the side of a mountain N of Barcelona.  It’s fascinating but you will spend 6 hours of your day traveling and taking a funicular from the train station up the mountain to the Monastery.  It is considered one of the must see attractions, but you need to time.  The train leaves from the Sants station.

What to Eat?

Let’s talk about food in Barcelona.  It’s important that we get something settled up front:

Barcelona is not known for fine dining.  The food is plentiful, not very expensive but not very exciting.  The atmosphere and the wine is what you remember.  Not your taste buds.  There is only one place that I will recommend at the end for a long, relaxing, quite dinner.  Most of time you are snacking on small plates or pintxos or tapas as the Portuguese refer to it.

For breakfast, every restaurant opens around 8 or 9 and will serve café and croissants.  The coffee is excellent; the croissants are not up to French standards but will suffice.  The city is blanketed with many small café’s;  at least one on every block.  Granier is a chain of coffee and pastry shops that I am loyal to. They are everywhere.  The pastries are appetizing.  I will eat a ‘bikini” which is a pressed ham and cheese for a little substance.

The Spanish dine around 2-4 for their mid day meal which is the biggest meal of the day.  Don’t expect most restaurants to open before 1 and expect to spend an hour for any table service.  There are several ready to eat counter restaurants but I could never find one that I thought was worth a return visit.

Most of the streets above the Gran Via comprised an area known as L’Eixample which is the nicest area to stay and walk around.  Many good restaurants can be found in the area. Some of my favorites were:

La Muscleria a muscle/frites specialty café with a lovely outdoor corner dining area.   Paella can be found throughout Barcelona.  My favorite was the paella, bread and wine special at BCN Gusto.  Located on a side street near the Palau, it’s where I have dinner before a show.  There is interior design studio which opened quite a nice restaurant called Beriestan Interiors.  This is good for a leisurely lunch.  If you are into empanadas, and the Spanish are, take a journey down the Grand Via to Rekon’s who will have 10 different varieties of empanadas.  I get two with a salad and it is very filling.  If you must have meat, and it is not as good as the US, there are a couple of steak houses specializing in imported Argentinean beef.  I had a nice meal at Buenos Aires Restaurant.  The ambiance and service are very nice. The steak is acceptable.

For a nice piece of fish or Lobster, go down to the board walk near the beach in the Barceloneta area and dine outdoors at El Rey de la Gambia.  There are two of them, a half block apart.  I like the #1.

Most people enjoy cerveza and vino with many pintxos for their evening meal.  You will have no difficulty finding this.  However, if you want to go where locals go, I suggest Taktika Berri or Cerveceria Catalana as these are full every evening with locals.  Plan on waiting about 30-45 minutes to get in the door and then you will stand at a bar and grab the food as it comes out of the kitchen.  You can also go for lunch and usually walk right in. If you are in the mood for some action and crowds, there is a pedestrian only street that is about a mile long called Carrier de Blai.  They set up tables in the street and its’ full of students and locals enjoying vino, cerveza and 1Euro pintxos.

You should also plan on getting away from the crowd and enjoy a cocktail and the sunset from a rooftop bar.  My favorites were the top of the Hotel Condes de Barcelona and the 1898 Hotel.

Have fun and feel free to post any findings that you discover!